Antigua: Roasting marshmallows on Volcano Pacaya

Pacaya used to be a spectacular active volcano with numerous lava flows coming down from its perfect conical crater.  However, since a major eruption in May of 2010 it has lost out on some of its glory.  Not only has the crater lost its idyllic shape, having been blown open on one side, but the lava has also stopped flowing.  That however, does not mean that it is any less deserving of a visit.

 We set out on our $8 tour at 6am, arriving at the base of the volcano around 8am and began our assent.  It is one of the easiest volcanoes in the area to climb.  Unlike Acatenango which involves a 6-8 hour assent, Payaca can be climbed in about 3 hours round trip.  Because of its active nature, you cannot climb all the way to the top of the crater.  Nevertheless, the views remain spectacular.  At your feet you see the huge valley which is home to the +1.1 million inhabitants of Guatemala City and a skyline dotted with volcanoes. 

Looking out in the direction of Antigua from left to right you will first see Volcano Fuego (3763m),  one of three active volcanoes in Guatemala, Volcano Acatenango (3976m) and Volcano Agua (3760m).  Fuego, every hour or so, spews out a massive ash and smoke cloud than can be seen rising above the cone. It is truly an amazing view.

Aside for the stellar views, Pacaya still offers some attractions of its own.  There might not be any hot red lava flowing anymore, but the rocks below your feet do tend to get quite warm.  There are some places where they form cave like formations that could equally well serve as saunas.  A number of other spots contain vents which release warm steam/air and provide an ideal place for roasting marshmallows.  We may not have had the $50 tour, but our guide came well prepared and each of us got a pick of pink, blue or white marshmallows, perfectly roasted over an active volcano. What more could you ask for?

By 11:30am we were back down at the base and ready to head to Antigua.  It turned out to have been the perfect day for this little excursion given that on Sunday the entire area was overcast and all volcanoes were hidden deep in the clouds.  Had we climbed on Sunday, we would have had to be satisfied with marshmallows, as there would have been absolutely no view, and that would have been a shame.